progress

If you have a project that you are working on, and want to show off some work that you have done to it, post it in here!
dakinehead
Posts:434
Joined:Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:00 pm
Re: progress

Post by dakinehead » Sun Feb 25, 2018 1:45 am

didn't start. hehe

4123

the coil has power. I can make the fuel pump turn on by touching the bottom nut on the back side of the coil.

something going on with the cas. I tried plugging in my extra one and spinning it by hand. didn't hear anything from injectors. turned the key and it didn't spin.
Mark

dakinehead
Posts:434
Joined:Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:00 pm

Re: progress

Post by dakinehead » Sun Feb 25, 2018 8:50 pm

she lives!!! had the coil and cas crossed.


there are 2 things I learned from the time that it ran for 3 months. my truck leaks so much oil from the turbo return line to the oil pan. it sucks really hard. I don't suppose any one on this sight makes those for sale??? also, the end part of the fuel rail where the return and vac line are. it also sucks cuz they both fighting for space with the thing connected to the gas pedal part. if I mash on the gas it will hit the vac line and the fuel return line. do people just cut the end off and re clock it so those two face down rather than sideways? again, any body sell that one?

as soon as it started I turned it off. I'm nervous. its like the first time sneaking a peek at my dads 10 year old playboys.
Mark

User avatar
4g63mightymax
Site Admin
Posts:8014
Joined:Sat Mar 18, 2006 7:40 am
Location:MA
Contact:

Re: progress

Post by 4g63mightymax » Sun Feb 25, 2018 9:54 pm

Congrats Mark!

The return line - If you want it to not leak, replace it with a -10AN hose. You'd have to pull the oil pan off and probably weld a fitting to it. Then buy an adapter for the bottom of the turbo. That would be the right thing to do. :)

The fuel rail is actually a very similar fix. Check out my old truck build thread to see what I did. I basically have a -6AN adapter on the end with a 90 degree fitting and -6AN going to an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator.

Both of these things are kind of pricey, but that's the right way to fix it all.
Jeremy N.
1964 Impala Convertible
1972 Pontiac Lemans
2016 Subaru Impreza

dakinehead
Posts:434
Joined:Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:00 pm

Re: progress

Post by dakinehead » Sun Mar 04, 2018 6:23 am

,, bro, thanks so much for helping me. its amazing that u and the boys can diagnose the issue even with the limited pics and vocabulary.

my I phone 4 cant pit pics on your sight. something about having iPhone account. drove a few miles to the gas station just to see what are the issues. what does it mean if the timing belt goes from tight to loose?

leaking from turbo oil return to oil pan at pan. have to weld to make 100 right? turbo oil return line to pan is all ready 10 an. tried to make it fit and took out the threads on the pan. lust a little to tight and also makes it impossible to change oil filter. all ready 10 an. better to start over on the return line to make a better long term soultion?

pleny patina on this rusted out disfunctional red devil. the truck looks like poop untill u hear it run. RNRRRRRRRR. also both my front tires are bald, the pitman and both tie rods are bad. i think? went to napa and dude asked me if i needed inners or outers or both. i dont know what pitman or inners or outers. just get all new of everything tnd then take it to a shop to allighn properly with new tires?

worse than the tires are the brakes. ebrake works fine and brakes work but u have to push too hard.
Mark

User avatar
4g63mightymax
Site Admin
Posts:8014
Joined:Sat Mar 18, 2006 7:40 am
Location:MA
Contact:

Re: progress

Post by 4g63mightymax » Sun Mar 04, 2018 8:17 am

The most important thing in all of what you wrote is the timing belt being loose. If you don’t correct that soon, you’ll bend all your valves again. I’m guessing that the hydraulic tensioner isn’t working or the mechanical tensioner is not set properly. Do you have a service manual for this engine? It wouldn’t hurt.

When you set the timing, did you compress the hydraulic timing belt tensioner and put a pin in it?
Jeremy N.
1964 Impala Convertible
1972 Pontiac Lemans
2016 Subaru Impreza

dakinehead
Posts:434
Joined:Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:00 pm

Re: progress

Post by dakinehead » Mon Mar 12, 2018 6:58 pm

I didn't do that part but I'm pretty sure he did. the parts that the belt spins around have a little rust on them but I figured the belt would handle that pretty easy. right? I found the oil leak, its on the rim of the oil pan. think I'm gonna have to get it welded. or, can I just put some jb weld?
cant get the headlights to work. the used to work before so this is the next mystery
Mark

User avatar
300D50
HRCS OG
Posts:3867
Joined:Wed Jun 24, 2009 12:21 am
Location:Central NY
Contact:

Re: progress

Post by 300D50 » Mon Mar 12, 2018 7:03 pm

Check the two fuses in the cab, iirc they're 3rd and fourth from the left on the bottom row. 15A I think.

There's also the link wire in the grey case under the hood on the drivers side fender well, close to the cab.
Walt
2006 RX-8 Shinka | 2006 BMW 325xi
1991 3000GT VR4 | 1994 3000GT SL
Some people never have anything except ideas. Go do it.
Emissions & fuel economy haven't exactly been areas of strength for past rotary power plants, but absolutely no one with a soul has ever cared.

dakinehead
Posts:434
Joined:Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:00 pm

Re: progress

Post by dakinehead » Mon Mar 12, 2018 8:18 pm

thanks Walt, the fuses are good. ill check that box. is that box considered a relay?

I cant get the darn oil pan off. tried beating it with a rubber mallet but it wont budge. some kind of silicone holding it to the block. are there any tricks or do I need to smash it harder with the mallet?
Mark

User avatar
300D50
HRCS OG
Posts:3867
Joined:Wed Jun 24, 2009 12:21 am
Location:Central NY
Contact:

Re: progress

Post by 300D50 » Mon Mar 12, 2018 8:32 pm

The box is a little grey thing about the size of a deck of cards, has a small snap-in cover, with 3 little wires in it. Those are the fusible links.

The connections they plug into can get dirty, or they might burn out.

Do the high beams flash when you pull the stalk forward?

The trick with the pan is to get a putty knife/spackle blade, and tap it in at the joint between the block and the pan. Then work it around, and it should separate the silicone sealant.
Walt
2006 RX-8 Shinka | 2006 BMW 325xi
1991 3000GT VR4 | 1994 3000GT SL
Some people never have anything except ideas. Go do it.
Emissions & fuel economy haven't exactly been areas of strength for past rotary power plants, but absolutely no one with a soul has ever cared.

dakinehead
Posts:434
Joined:Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:00 pm

Re: progress

Post by dakinehead » Mon Mar 12, 2018 11:52 pm

thanks Walt, my box only had 2 of the three and the headlight one is busted. probably don't have the right size stuff to make them tonight. hopefully napa has. I tried with a 5&1 on the pan before posting. gonna try putty knife next. maybe a razor?
Mark

User avatar
300D50
HRCS OG
Posts:3867
Joined:Wed Jun 24, 2009 12:21 am
Location:Central NY
Contact:

Re: progress

Post by 300D50 » Tue Mar 13, 2018 1:30 am

You can make the link yourself, using a piece of 20 gauge automotive wire and spade terminals.
Cut it to about the the same length as the original, and crimp the new ends on. Should work out easy.

You could also replace it with a 40A fuse/breaker in a holder, and use 14 gauge wire to the spade terminals. Depends on what's available to you.

A box cutter might wirk, just be careful not to snap the blade by levering it. Been there, done that. :)

dakinehead
Posts:434
Joined:Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:00 pm

Re: progress

Post by dakinehead » Thu Mar 15, 2018 6:17 pm

its impossible to find that size clips. just bent some that were slightly larger into shape. the closest wire in my garage was also slightly larger. better too big than too small even though they are both bad choices?

it took 3 1/2 days for me to go to ace and buy 2 solid wood handle putty knifes. wasted so much time pounding on a damn plastic handle one. a tip for anyone who doesn't know. get a solid handle wood putty or 2. get them started, then get super pissed and push really hard with both hands.

so brake clean, then acitone, then bake in oven? how long and what temp? I'm not sure if there is someone who will weld it, if I have to use jb weld to fix the crack, do I need to sand? I don't know what to do

there are two large cracks along the rim. better to get a new one from...?
Mark

User avatar
300D50
HRCS OG
Posts:3867
Joined:Wed Jun 24, 2009 12:21 am
Location:Central NY
Contact:

Re: progress

Post by 300D50 » Fri Mar 16, 2018 9:52 am

You should be good with the link you made.

You might want to try soldering the cracks in the pan with regular plumbers solder. Should hold up ok on a steel pan, and would let you take time to find another if needed.
Walt
2006 RX-8 Shinka | 2006 BMW 325xi
1991 3000GT VR4 | 1994 3000GT SL
Some people never have anything except ideas. Go do it.
Emissions & fuel economy haven't exactly been areas of strength for past rotary power plants, but absolutely no one with a soul has ever cared.

dakinehead
Posts:434
Joined:Sat Feb 13, 2010 10:00 pm

Re: progress

Post by dakinehead » Fri Mar 16, 2018 9:28 pm

id prefer to buy a new one. $92 + $50 shipping from mainland at the local napa. trying to find a better deal on line
Mark

User avatar
4g63mightymax
Site Admin
Posts:8014
Joined:Sat Mar 18, 2006 7:40 am
Location:MA
Contact:

Re: progress

Post by 4g63mightymax » Mon Mar 19, 2018 12:20 pm

As long as your flywheel has 6 bolts in it where it attaches to the crankshaft, this will work for you: https://www.1aauto.com/engine-oil-pan-d ... 325&y=1991
Jeremy N.
1964 Impala Convertible
1972 Pontiac Lemans
2016 Subaru Impreza

Post Reply